Care & useful information
Licences and Permits
Getting Started
Keeping Aussie Pythons
Bearded Dragon Care
Licences and Permits
It is illegal to remove reptiles from the wild in Australia, by doing so it may result in a Hefty Fine and Imprisonment!
Australias licensing laws to keep reptiles are different in each State and Territory. Import and Export Permits are available through National Parks and Wildlife in your State or Territory. For further Information please contact the National Parks and Wildlife Department in your State or Territory as per the details below.
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South Australia
Department of Environment and Natural Resources/ Wildlife Management
GPO Box 1782, Adelaide. South Australia. 5001.
Phone: 08 8124 4972 Fax: 08 8124 4939
Website: SA Fauna Permits
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Northern Territory
Parks and Wildlife Commission of The Northern Territory.
Goyder Centre, 25 Chung Wah Terrace, Palmerston NT 0830, AUSTRALIA
PO Box 496, Palmerston NT 0831
Tel: (08) 89 995511 (International 61 8 89 995511)
Fax: (08) 89 323849 (International 61 8 89 323849)
Website: NT Parks and Wildlife Commission
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Victoria
VIC Natural Resources and Environment Information.
NRE Information Centre
8 Nicholson Street, PO Box 500, East Melbourne, Victoria Australia 3002, PH 136186
Website: Department of Sustainability and Environment
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Western Australia
Department of Conservation and Land Management.
Locked Bag 104, Bentley. Western Australia. 6983.
Phone: 08 9334 0333 Fax: 08 9334 0242
Email: info@calm.wa.gov.au
Website: Calm
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New South Wales
43 Bridge Street, (PO Box 1967), HURSTVILLE 2220
Switchboard: (02) 9585 6444 (8.30am - 5.00pm)
Fax 9585 6555
Email: info@npws.nsw.gov.au
Website: NSW NPWS License information
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Queensland
National Parks and Wildlife Service.
Central Office, 160 Ann St,Brisbane QLD 4000, (07) 3227 7111
Postal address, PO Box 155, Brisbane Albert St, Brisbane QLD 4002
Website: QLD NPWS Permits and licences
Website: QLD NPWS and EPA Contact Numbers
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Tasmania
National Parks and Wildlife Service.
For general enquiries and feedback
Email: interps@dpiwe.tas.gov.au
or phone Service Tasmania on 1300 135 513 - Mon-Fri (9-5)
Mail: Parks and Wildlife Service
GPO Box 44A, Hobart, Tasmania, 7001 AUSTRALIA
Website: TAS Parks and Wildlife Permit Info
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Australian Capital Territory
Environment ACT Pets and Wildlife
Postal address, PO Box 144, Lyneham ACT 2602
Street address, 12 Wattle Street, Lyneham ACT 2602
Environment Information Centre
Ph: +61 (02) 6207 9777 BH
Fax: +61 (02) 6207 2227
Email: EnvironmentACT@act.gov.au
Website: Environment ACT Pets and Wildlife
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Getting Started - Simple incubator start plan.
You will need:
- 1 x Insulated box (Can be self-constructed, esky, old bar fridge, etc.)
- 1 x Heat Cord
- 1 x Thermostat with probe (Microclimate Thermostat, Thermostat plus)
- 1 x Thermometer
- 1 x Eyelet screws or hot glue gun and glue for securing heat cord.
STEP 1: Make sure that your incubator will be well insulated and very clean. This is especially true if you are using an old fridge as these may contain fungal spores that could kill off your clutch.
STEP 2: Thread the probe of the thermostat through a pre-drilled hole in the wall of the incubator. If using an old fridge, cut a section out of the door seal to thread through as some old fridges may contain asbestos in their casing. Position probe centrally. Having a shelf in the middle of your incubator can make this easier.
STEP 3: Thread heat cord through a second pre-drilled hole and attach to the wall and floor of the incubator. Zig zag up and downsides and position with either eyelet screws or heated glue.
STEP 4: Place thermometer inside incubator and plug heat cord into thermostat. Set required temperature on the thermostat and run for a few days before use. Adjust temperature if needed.
STEP 5: Place lidded boxes of eggs (sitting in an appropriate medium) inside the incubator. Different eggs will require different needs so speak to a breeder or email us. NB. If making a large incubator, consider using a small fan to move heated air around in the larger area.
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Keeping Aussie Pythons
Australian pythons are becoming increasingly popular as pets. This information will introduce you to some of their basic requirements. It is not possible to cover all aspects of husbandry and certainly not breeding in this introductory 'Care Sheet'. However this sheet is designed to give a quick overview of the most common snakes.
All pythons are non-venomous, having curved solid teeth. Nevertheless some of the larger species can inflict a painful bite. Treatment for such wounds would be basic first aid and cleansing with Dettol, Betadine etc. as per instructions.
The species most commonly kept in Australia, the Children's Python Group (Spotted Pythons, Children's Pythons & Stimson's Pythons), Carpet and Diamond Pythons, Water Pythons, Olive Pythons, Amethystine Pythons and Black-headed Pythons.
Most people start with one of the Children's Python Group. They are a hardy snake in captivity, generally good feeders, good temperament and grow to a little over a metre. They are generally available all year round.
The Carpet and Diamond Pythons grow in excess of two metres, with the Carpet being the more readily obtainable. Temperament varies with individuals but generally a well balanced species.
The Water Python may also exceed 2 metres and doesn't as the name implies, require any more water than the other species. Its nature can vary from very placid to one of extremely snappy. Generally available most of the year. The Olive Python is the choice of the larger pythons. It generally has a placid temperament and can reach a body length of 2 metres in its first two years. 4 metre specimens are not uncommon. Very hardy in captivity and a good feeder. Available mainly Feb - June, depending on numbers bred.
The Amethystine Python is for the more gamely. A beautiful python that can exceed 5 metres in length. It has a disposition that is not suited for keepers who do not wish to be bitten. A quiet 'Scrubby' comes along occasionally, but more often the reverse is the ‘norm’. Scrubbies are not commonly available. The Black-headed Python grows to approx. 2 metres, has a good disposition and does well in captivity.
When choosing your first python make inquiries, and if in doubt, on any issue, contact a fellow keeper, Herpetological Society or your local dealer. It is good practice to see the snake of your choice being fed before purchase. Remember, the larger or the prettiest does not necessarily mean the best purchase.
The size of the cage required depends on the species and length of the snake. There is no set formula for this and it is better to be advised on the particular specimen than to go through all species here. A one metre snake does not necessarily require a one metre cage. Although glass aquariums are not generally recommended, they can be used if certain conditions apply. The disadvantage with an all glass aquarium is that the heat disperses too easily during the winter months and also may present some problems with wiring the thermostat, lights etc. A wooden cage with a glass front is more desirable and should be painted and sealed with a good quality paint. Heating can be supplied by means of incandescent light bulbs correctly wired to a thermostat to control the cage temperature. Other means of heating are available such as hot rocks, heating mats etc. but discuss this further with us before you proceed. The desired maximum temperature for most pythons is around 300 C. Where possible give the specimen the opportunity to move around the cage to allow it to seek variance of temperature. Good ventilation is also necessary but should be placed in a position where cold drafts will not be entering the warm cage over the colder months. It is best that water is available to the snake at all times and this should be in a non-spillable container varying in size according to the specimen being kept. The floor of the cage can be covered with anything from clean newspaper to washed (but dry) aquarium gravel. This can be changed as it becomes soiled. Cage furnishings are up to the individual and do not necessarily do anything for the reptile. A hiding spot, such as a hollow log or constructed hide box will facilitate your pythons needs for privacy. Normally room lighting is sufficient to throw some light into your cage and in most cases special lighting such as Ultra-Violet is not required although at present it is being used with some success with Diamond Pythons and will definitely do no harm to your snake.
Feeding once a week is regarded as pretty normal for most pythons and no need to panic if you miss the odd week or two. It is good to take some of the more mature specimens off their food over the winter months and go through a bit of 'natural semi-hibernation'. Feed the snake on what food items were suggested to you on purchase, be careful in the case of young individuals not to offer too large a food item. Most pythons will readily accept mice or rats but some may prefer items such as birds, guinea pigs or rabbits. Shedding of the skin comes with growth and will be more regular in younger specimens. Avoid handling or feeding your snake when it is preparing to slough. Also avoid handling your snake after it has been fed.
Never place your pet snake in the unshaded area of a backyard leaving it to 'cook' in the extremes of the suns radiation. The same applies to transporting your snake anywhere by car. Reptiles cannot control their body temperature if placed in a position where their body temperature is governed by unnatural influences. Do not use fly sprays or other similar products near your reptile or cage.
Suggested further reading: 'Care Of Australian Reptiles In Captivity', John Weigel
"Care Of Australian Pythons",by Geordie Torr "Pythons of Australia", Brian Kend.
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Bearded Dragon Care
The bearded dragons are one of Australia’s best known reptiles. They also happen to be an animal that makes a great pet. These active intelligent lizards are very responsive and tame down well.
The things that are important to your bearded dragon are:
Food.Heat:Ultra Violet Light.Calcium.Water.Social structure.
If you are keeping more than one animal then there will be a definite pecking order established. You will see that it is always the most dominant animal that gets the best basking spots etc. Always ensure that your animals which are lower on the pecking order get enough to eat. Some juvenile dragons don’t take very well to drinking from bowls. It is sometimes nescessary to spray water on to the animal’s face and surrounds to encourage them to drink. Pay attention to your animal, if you see your animal drinking from a bowl then that’s fine, if not then "mist" the cage lightly with water. A juvenile bearded dragon can quadruple it’s size in just a few months. To do this, large amounts of calcium are needed to build healthy bones. To ensure that your animal gets all the calcium that it requires, you should regularly supplement your animal’s food with a good calcium powder like rep cal or tetra. Reptiles, like us need to have exposure to U.V. light to enable us to process vitamin D in their bodies. Without a good source of U.V. your animal will suffer from problems with it’s skeleton and joints. Deformities are not uncommon in animals that are housed with no U.V. and this can also result in paralysis and death. A good flouro tube like a Repti-glo or Repti-sun is essential if your animal does not get regular exposure to natural sunlight. This exposure needs to be direct, not through glass. Glass cuts down the penetration of U.V. light dramatically. Being a reptile, the dragons do not have inbuilt means to control their own body temperature, so therefore when they are being kept indoors they need to have a heat source that they can approach or avoid as the need arises. These animals love to bask in a hot area, soaking up the heat. This gives them the energy that they need to be able to digest their food, move around, and find more food. So it is essential that you use an enclosure that will cater to these needs. Bearded dragons love hunting down live insects and small animals but this doesn’t mean that this is all they eat . A bearded dragon needs to have a variety of foods to do well. A mixture of fruit and vegetables need to be offered to your animal, with things like lettuce, dandelions, strawberries, banana, peas etc. usually being well accepted. There is also a very good pellet food available from the Rep-Cal company in two sizes for adults and juvenile animals.
Do NOT feed meal worms to young dragons! Mealworms have been known to eat their way out.
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